In July 1992, I took a trip through Northwestern Greece for approximately four weeks. While I did not keep a diary on it, I posted some impressions from that trip on soc.culture.greek in the springs of 1993 and 1994; both my stay and my mobility were limited, but reactions from a few readers make it worth including those memories in my page, I think. The visitor to the respective four pages should be warned in advance of the region's complicated history, which does certainly surface in my narrative. These pages are dedicated to the memory of my Aristotle University classmate and Harvard Biostatistics professor Myrto Lefkopoulou, whose life ended with the summer of 1992: she was the first one to read about my trip, thanks to a letter sent to her during her final days.

Psarades (Nivitsi)

The "fascist"

The Vikos Gorge

Samarina, village without cats

"A rest!" shouted the becktchee, flinging himself loose and mopping his face with the kerchief. The line broke. Stoyanka threw her arm suddenly around my waist, and with the lingering motion of the dance swung me back in among the vines, where we subsided to a reclining position on the soil, her elbow resting on my shoulder. Sandy's partner had executed a similar move.

[Spring 1906, between Florina and Bitola -- from Albert Sonnichsen's "Confessions of a Macedonian Bandit " (Duffield & Co, New York, 1909)]

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