Behind the "crying and dying" images frequently offered by the media, lies the "real" Africa, according to Professor Neelika Jayawardane. She escorted nine students to show them first-hand what a dynamic continent it is.

For the "Navigating the Oceans" course, Jayawardane and the students spent nearly two weeks in and around Cape Town, South Africa, learning about the area's history, culture and vibe. Students found the excursion eye-opening and more intense than they could have imagined.

"Even if you've been prepared, we all go in with our CNN view of the nation," Jayawardane said. "It tells you how powerful the pictures of otherness are in our minds."

She returned to South Africa, where she previously had lived and taught, after joining Oswego's faculty. The experience helped her become increasingly determined to find a way to open the eyes of others.

"I saw that my life was rich in many ways," Jayawardane said. "I knew immediately I wanted to take students there. I wanted to pass on experiences and I wanted to pass on knowledge."

That certainly happened. "Seeing what I saw there affected so much of my life," said Kevin Fleming '11, a graphic design major from Sterling. "Going on this trip just shocked me."

In contrast to the media focus on poverty in Africa, Fleming found Cape Town "very vibrant, culturally rich," he said. With its beautiful houses, outstanding restaurants and premium art galleries, Cape Town was "every bit as cultural as New York City," he said. "I had this preconceived notion of what South Africa would be, and this just turned it upside down."

Kyle Dzintars M '09, an English student from Albany who had never been abroad before, found South Africa surprising in its rich diversity. "We always think of America as the melting pot, but in South Africa we experienced so many different cultures," Dzintars said. "It was interesting to see the many different dialects spoken there."

Chenshen Wang '11, an anthropology major from Brooklyn, said she felt "really lucky" to be part of the experience "because I enjoyed this course a lot. It wasn't what I expected."

Every country -- including the United States -- has poverty, Wang noted, but it seems like the media magnifies it in covering Africa.

They acknowledge South Africa still has its share of struggles. While its former system of apartheid, where whites were legally elevated, is abolished by law, it has not appeared to have ended socially, Fleming said.

"I was very struck by the differences in social classes," he said. "I had this expectation there would be complete harmony but it was still quite separate."

Wang noted the visit to Cape Town brought her much closer to history than reading a book or seeing a movie ever could. They were able to talk to people who told of life under apartheid.

Students learned that many white people, especially poets and artists, were key to the movement to eliminate apartheid, which Jayawardane said was because they had the freedom to organize that black South Africans did not.

The AIDS epidemic continues to challenge the nation. The students called a visit to a camp for HIV-positive children in the Themba Care program "unforgettable," but in large part because of the spirit the kids showed. Wang said it gave her perspective: Every day she sees people who have plenty and feel sorry for themselves, but these HIV-positive children appreciated life as a gift.

"I was touched by the fact that they were continuing to live a gorgeous life in spite of their illness," she said.

In addition to the unique social interaction, the student group soaked in some exceptional scenery.

A major feature of the area is the looming Table Mountain that "really has such a presence," Dzintars said, even impacting weather in the city. "I miss it a lot. It makes you feel small."

Wang was pleasantly surprised by the rhythm of the country's life. "It was slow and calm and peaceful," especially compared to the pace of her native New York City.

"It was hard to describe to my friends when I got back, but you feel a change," Dzintars said. "I couldn't explain it, but I was open to all experiences. I learned that travel is an experience that opens up passages in your head."

Fleming said he feels great global awareness now, and would like to explore more of the world. "I have this strong sense of wanting to go back, not just to Cape Town but to other areas we didn't have a chance to see," he said.

-- Tim Nekritz M '05

PHOTO CAPTION:
Working with HIV-positive children in the Themba Clinic was part of nine students' "life-changing" tour of South Africa.

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